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Dino Dog -- $2500 OBO

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Full disclosure: I use a modified version of Teacup Lion's anthro sewing pattern to make my plushes.

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Fursuits

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Pricing

The starting cost for each of these commission types assumes a very simple character with few colors and markings, and goes up with more complicated characters. Please ask for a quote if you’d like an exact cost for a commission. However, for fursuits specifically, I have come up with a guide to help see how much more expensive your character might be than the base price. Please note that this is just a guide and a proper quote will be required for any commission.

I also offer additional features that can be added on.
Examples of these features include:
Finger escapes, sandals, magnetic eyelids, magnetic tongues, and/or additional zippers. But feel free to ask if you have anything else in mind--I am happy to try new things!

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Duct Tape Dummy Guide

General Tips

A duct tape dummy is best accomplished with 2-3 helpers, but just one will do in a pinch. Please do not try to make a duct tape dummy by yourself.

Expect the duct tape dummy to take around 2 hours. Don't have anything planned immediately afterward in case it goes long because you can't stop midway, and do not try and rush the process.

Lay the tape so that it's tight and doesn't have much wiggle on you, but not so tight that it cuts off circulation. Be careful of this.

When making the duct tape dummy, it is best to use short strips of duct tape, about 6 inches long. This helps capture the distinct shapes of your body and helps the bodysuit fit you better in the end.

Please please PLEASE make sure there are no gaps between strips of duct tape, and that the strips are sufficiently overlapped. It's anywhere from mildly annoying to impossible for me to account for gaps later, and we don't want the pieces to pull apart either!

What You Will Need

3 55 Yard rolls of duct tape (you may be able to get away with 2, but 3 is safe. I will also gladly take any leftover duct tape you have--I go through a lot).

A painter's suit.

Scissors.

A permanent marker.

A broom/ swiffer/ other pole that you can hold onto to keep your arm raised parallel to the floor for an extended period without getting tired.

Paper towel (used to extend the painter's suit if you're too tall for it).

Process

0. Plan ahead whether you are making a half duct tape dummy or a full one.
If your character design has symmetrical markings, you can safely do a half duct tape dummy (where you omit one arm and one leg on the same side--the entire torso is still taped--like shown in this tutorial).
If your character design is asymmetrical or you are unsure/confused by this, please do a full duct tape dummy.

1. Put on the painter's suit. Plant your legs shoulder-width apart and try to keep them there for the duration of the process.

2. Tape the crotch area. Make it tight, but comfortable. A loosely taped crotch area will be a massive problem later because they tend to migrate downward as you're taping the legs and lead to extremely ill-fitting bodysuits.

3. For symmetrical designs, tape around on of your ankles. For asymmetrical designs, tape around both. Make sure the painter's suit is still baggy and not pulled taut. If it isn't long enough for this, you can add some paper towel to extend the length of your painter's suit.

4. Continue to tape the rest of your leg. Be very very careful that neither the crotch nor the ankle migrate.

5. Tape on both sides of the zipper to allow yourself an easy route out of the duct tape dummy later.

6. Grab your broom/ swiffer/ other pole and use it to prop your arm up approximately parallel to the floor.

7. Tape the armpit on the same side as the leg you've already taped (or both armpits for asymmetrical designs). Like the crotch, make it tight, but comfortable. A loosely taped armpit will lead to an ill-fitting bodysuit. And similar to the leg, tape around your wrist. Again make sure the painter's suit is still baggy and not pulled taut. If it isn't long enough for this, you can add some paper towel to extend the length of your painter's suit.

8. Continue to tape the rest of your arm. Be very very careful that neither the armpit nor the wrist migrate. You can also tape the entire rest of your torso now*, and make sure the neck goes up high enough.
*Try not to tape over the zipper, this was done on accident during this session,

9. Mark where you would wear a belt with permanent marker.

10. Write your name somewhere obvious.

10. Carefully cut the duct tape dummy so that you can get out of it. I recommend cutting it on the top of your arm from the wrist to neck and the side of the leg from ankle to hip, but do whatever works. Be careful to not cut yourself or your clothes.

At this point, you're done! Just box it up real tight (along with any leftover tape you might want to give me--no pressure though) and mail it to me!

A special thank you to Ouija/ @samoyrae for taking these pictures for me! She'd made her own fursuit head and paws before commissioning me for a bodysuit, so was able to help me make a super cute tutorial!
Also shout out to Luca/ @its_luca_pink (right), whose head and paws were made by Gentlefur!

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Fursuit Care Guide

General Tips

Keep your suit out of the heat! This means no hot cars and definitely no dryers. The foam inside the head can permanently deform and the fur can melt, affecting the texture and look very negatively.

I also recommend storing your suit out of direct sunlight, but this is much less serious than keeping it out of the heat.

Wear a balaclava underneath your fursuit head, it absorbs a bunch of the sweat that otherwise would have ended up inside the head. You can get sweat wicking ones at cons, or any number of options online. Just make sure you don't get the insulating type or you will get WARM.

In a similar vein, I suggest you wear Under Armour (or other athletic wear) under your bodysuit.

I also recommend wearing gloves and socks underneath your fursuit paws to absorb sweat if your heat tolerance can take it. I wear knit gloves and long socks personally, but whatever is comfortable to you can work.

If your suit has hair on it, please be gentle. My suits are pretty hardy in general, but the hair is something you will want to be nice to!

Brush your suit frequently! I recommend purchasing a pet brush and holding it upside down as you brush. Pet brushes are designed to pull fur out to help shedding, but your suit doesn't grow fur back, so use the brush backwards!

If you get any stains or dirt spots on the fur of your suit, a little Folex can usually get them out. Just apply, scrub it in there, rinse and dab dry with a towel. You will be shocked what that stuff can get out, it's kind of a miracle solution. Just be careful to test a small area beforehand to verify it doesn't affect the color. I've never had any issues, but please just check to be safe.

Spray anywhere your suit touches you with disinfectant fursuit spray and dry carefully after wearing. This means spraying the inside of the head, paws, and bodysuit and utilizing fans to speed up the process. This will help keep your suit clean, reduce sweat odor, and prevent mold from growing. Regular 50% isopropyl alcohol (you can make this by diluting higher concentrations with water) in a spray bottle will work just as fine if you prefer not to get fursuit spray, as they are usually scented strongly.

Spraying your suit alone is NOT enough to keep your suit clean. I recommend washing your suit after cons or whenever you sweat into it. Please do not be a smelly puppy for too long, it can get gross rapidly.

Washing

For a fursuit head, footpaws, and tail:

Surface clean with water mixed with a small amount of Tide. This is best accomplished using a Little Green Machine. Rinse until suds stop coming out. Focus on cleaning areas that you sweat into, touch the ground, are pet frequently, or are otherwise visibly dirty.
NOTE: I consider the eyes to be water resistant. This means you shouldn't get them wet deliberately, but if they do get wet, dab them dry with a towel and they will be just fine. DO NOT RUB DRY, although unlikely, this could cause the paint to come off.

For a fursuit body and handpaws:

Fill a bathtub with lukewarm water and a small amount of Tide. Submerge the bodysuit/ handpaws completely. Gently scrub over the entire surface, focusing on areas that you sweat into and then soak for a little while, I recommend about a half hour. Drain the tub and then use the shower head to rinse until suds stop coming out. Be careful handling the bodysuit while it's wet because it will weigh significantly more wet, it may surprise you.

Drying

It is very important to dry your suit as fast as possible so nothing grows on it. This means squeeze out any water that you can, and then use fans. As many fans as you have. Especially make sure you have something pointing to the inside of your fursuit head because the foam will absorb water and then have nowhere to go if the air isn't circulating. I also recommend getting a wetsuit dryer for bodysuits if possible. These can additionally be used at cons to dry your suit after you've been sweating. In order to dry handpaws and feetpaws, I also recommend taking some plastic cups, cutting the bottoms out, and sticking them inside to increase airflow (if the cups are too large for your handpaws, just cut a slit down the side).

Once everything is drying, it is also important to brush all of the wet fur, regularly. I recommend brushing it immediately and then every couple of hours while it's drying. This helps the fur strands to dry untangled, straight, and going in the correct direction.

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Terms of Service (08/17/2025)

Quotes

Quotes are valid for 1 month from the date that they’re given and should be given in the format of down payment + labor cost + an optional rush fee (see Rush Fee).

Payment

There are four parts to payment: the down payment, the labor cost, the shipping cost, and the optional rush fee. These payments can be made via Paypal and Venmo.Down Payment:
The down payment is made before materials are ordered, and assures the commissioner’s place in my queue.
The down payment is only refundable if I cannot complete your commission by the deadline (see Deadlines) — in cases where the commissioner backs out, I am to keep the down payment and any unused materials can be shipped to the commissioner if they so desire. The cost of shipping these materials is still the responsibility of the commissioner.The cost breakdown for different commission types is as follows:

*Small Misc projects refers to tails, hand paws, other fursuit accessories, kigus, plushies, or other custom items. $100 is an estimate and the exact down payment cost should be discussed with the commissioner depending on the exact nature of the commission.Labor Cost:
I offer three payment options: full, half and half, or short payment plans. The first payment should be made before I begin work on the suit, and the final payment should be made before I ship the suit. For half and half and short payment plans, all dates should be predetermined with the client before work begins.
If the commissioner misses any payment dates, I have the right to pause work on their commission and push back the deadline by the same number of days the commissioner was late in paying me. If any payment exceeds four weeks late, I have the right to cancel/refund the remaining commission.Shipping Cost:
Shipping costs are calculated after the commission is completed. The commissioner must be aware that I cannot guarantee any particular cost for shipping, but it historically has been around $50-200.Rush Fee:
A rush fee can be negotiated to assure your commission is completed and shipped before a certain date, and is calculated depending on how much time there is before said date. Please note that this date refers to when the commission is shipped — calculating how much time a package needs to arrive on time is the responsibility of the commissioner and a package that was shipped on time and arrives late is NOT my responsibility.Refunds:
Once the down payment is made, and before the deadline, requesting a refund can result in a permanent blacklisting from ordering future commissions from me.
Refunds can only be given on uncompleted work, so the value of a refund must be calculated considering the amount of work I’ve completed on the commission versus the amount that has been paid on the commission. Any unused materials and the partly-completed commission will be shipped to the commissioner. The cost of shipping is still the responsibility of the commissioner.

Deadlines

All commissions without a rush will be completed and shipped within 8 months of the day that either the down payment is made, or the duct tape dummy is delivered to me (if a fullsuit is being commissioned), whichever is later. Commissions with a rush will be completed and shipped by the deadline determined with the commissioner. If I miss this deadline, the commissioner has the right to request a refund on any uncompleted work.

Communication

For commissions with a rush on them, the commissioner must also respond to any questions within 24 hours on Monday-Friday. For other commissions, the commissioner must respond to any questions within 48 hours on Monday-Friday unless days where the commissioner will be unavailable are discussed beforehand. If the commissioner takes longer than this amount of time to respond, I have the right to push back the deadline by the same number of days the commissioner was late in responding to me.
If the commissioner doesn’t respond for 4 weeks, I have the right to cancel/refund the remaining commission.

Shipping

Packages are shipped insured for the total value of the quote via UPS, within one month of completion, and before the deadline. Once a package has been dropped off with the carrier, it is the responsibility of the carrier and/or commissioner.

Changes

The commissioner has the right to request changes during the process, but they aren’t always free.
I specifically build in steps to ask for input from the commissioner. For fursuits specifically, this refers to steps where I will ask about adjusting the shape of the headbase, or the shape of digi padding. Or for more general types of commissions, this refers to steps where I will ask about the location of markings, or the shape of the eyes and tail. In each of these steps, I will make reasonable changes for free. A change can be defined as reasonable if it will take me less than half of the time I spent doing the step that requires a change.
For example, if I spent an hour drawing markings onto a pattern, I would be willing to spend a half hour adjusting the location of markings for free.
If a change is deemed unreasonable, is requested outside of the aforementioned steps, or goes beyond the scope of the quote, I reserve the right to provide another quote and charge for additional unexpected labor.

Repairs

All my commissions are handmade objects, which means that they can have small issues. This is normal and somewhat expected for commissions of this nature. If there are any issues pertaining to the construction of the commission within one month of receiving it which they cannot fix themselves, the commissioner will pay to ship the commission back, I will repair for free, and I will pay to ship back. If instead the issue shows up over a month after initially receiving the commission, but less than 6 months, the commissioner will pay for shipping in both directions, as well as for any additional materials which may need to be ordered to repair the commission, but I will still provide labor for free. If the issue shows up more than 6 months after initially receiving the commission, a quote for labor costs will be required, and I am not required to fix it.
If the repair is for an issue related to mishandling the commission, the commissioner will pay for shipping in both directions, and a quote for labor costs will be required, and I am not required to fix it.
I have the right to refuse any repair on any commission that has been used for adult purposes, to protect my health and safety. In this case, I can still provide guidance on how to do the repair yourself however.

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